The swells keep on coming

It’s official: we have broken out of those early January doldrums in a big way.

Usually, getting one swell in a four-day period is enough to get most VB surfers stoked out of their 5-4-3s; but getting two, solid swells – both of very distinct character – made our stretch of coast a playground from Friday through Sunday (Sidebar: Mother Nature’s convenient weekend timing has been a plus for maximizing our in-water time as well!).

Following up MLK Day’s Frisco “so’wester” swell was a strong ENE push for Friday and Saturday, along with appropriately cold winds, cloudy skies and the always ridiculous temperature of the Atlantic, which is still hovering around 40 degrees. Southerly wind flow took over on Sunday as a SE swell built, south winds raged overnight before clocking to the SW for the afternoon cleanup of solid head high barrels as far as the eye could see in Sandbridge. I’m sure the rest of VB was doing its thing as well.

Friday and Saturday were of the bigger-than-it-looks variety, with choppy peaks occasionally opening up into some grinders on the inside. Check out the pics for some of Friday’s action.


It was easily head high with some outside bombs keeping us honest. Saturday was a touch smaller, but much more organized. That said, the period still hadn’t lengthened enough to get it right. Got some fun ones with the S&A boys, Brett Carey and Eric Coulson (note the name-dropping) at the Market (everyone’s favorite secret spot).

Sunday was a slopfest, as the ENE swell died behind a building SE push. Again, there were some waves to be had, but I almost didn’t bother, know what I mean?

Monday was the jewel of these days. Heavy wind and rain pounded us overnight and into the morning, setting up a strong south swell (really, really angled) that saw big rights opening up on the outside. The wind continued to lighten and go more westerly until sundown. Another sesh with the S&A crew yielded all the barrels you wanted, big open faces and ripable sections inside. This one really had it all and was the most fun I’ve caught VB since early fall.

Looks like another blow is coming our way this weekend, and you gotta love that. Cross your fingers.

--John CSB